Common sense, habit-forming routines and a basic understanding of changes brought on by Tier 4 emissions will all help ensure a long and productive life for any backhoe. While are a staple in many large fleets where they are cared for by a full-time fleet manager, they are equally – if not more so – widespread among owner/operators and smaller businesses where the person operating the machine is also the one performing maintenance on it, hauling it, site foreman, lunch gofer, etc.
Even in those large fleets, where they may have “a guy” who performs all the maintenance, there are actions that operators can take in their day-to-day activities that will have a long-term effect on the health and performance of the machine. The proliferation of Tier 4 Final equipment – with greater fuel and fluid tolerances/demands – also requires attention and understanding from everyone in the machine management cycle. Rip this article out of the magazine, post it to the shop wall or make copies of it and tuck it in each crew truck.
It’s a good refresher for backhoe operators, new and old, to keep that machine running at its best. The Wisdom of the Owner’s Manual Know it. Or, at least, know where to find it. Inside each owner’s manual is a detailed service interval schedule that should be followed. Old school fleet managers will lay out these intervals in a log book, or on a massive whiteboard in the shop. Others will leverage the free telematics available on select backhoe models (more on that later) and automate alerts for required maintenance so that intervals aren’t missed. Either way, everything needed is right there in the owner’s manual.
The Pre- and Post-Flight Walkaround This is, arguably, the most important few minutes of the day in the life of the backhoe (or any machine, for that matter). As usual: check the oil and hydraulic fluid levels, check tire pressure and condition (especially important given how much time backhoes spend in travel mode), and grease as needed (more on that to come). But also take a few minutes to take in the overall condition of the machine. Look for visible damage, or leaks, or anything else that might be out of order or indicate something that would impede the operation of the machine. Check for cracked paint around the backhoe and loader arms where they could be susceptible to high stress.
Cracked or spider-webbed paint could be an indication that the metal structure beneath is cracked and should be investigated to ensure there’s no serious damage. Inspect the condition of the buckets and/or attachments, and ensure that all are properly engaged. Check belts and auxiliary connections. Identifying possible mechanical issues with the backhoe, either at the beginning or the end of the day, will ensure that it is fixed and cared for properly before it turns into a more costly downtime event. This is especially important at the end of a shift where repairs can be identified and addressed before the start of the next day/shift so as to avoid downtime. Evolving Fluids There remains a learning curve with the new Tier 4 Final machines – but it’s not that hard or intensive to bring maintenance practices up to current standards/requirements. One of the areas affected the most is fluid.
Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) This is the “new” fluid required by today’s backhoes (greater than 74 horsepower), although owners of higher horsepower equipment and select on-road trucks have been using it for years. DEF is not difficult to manage or handle. Like other fluids, it likes cool and dry storage (although shelf life even at 86 degrees is still 12 months). It should be stored and dispensed in dedicated containers so as not to allow for any contamination (even minimal contamination of DEF can lead to degraded performance and eventual failure of the SCR system).
Always buy DEF from a reliable source, and always use DEF that is ISO 22241 compliant. OAT Organic Acid Technology (OAT) is an extended life coolant that provides increased protection to the engine and better performance throughout its service life. Today’s Tier 4 Final backhoes feature a clearly marked decal near the fill point that indicates the use of OAT, and the brand specified by the OEM. This is also detailed in the owner’s manual. Conventional coolant cannot be mixed with OAT, and off-brand/off-spec coolant (separate from what is specified by the OEM) can diminish its extended life properties and cause compatibility issues when mixed. Oil Today’s Tier 4 Final backhoes require a low-ash oil, CJ-4, that previously was not used in older equipment.
This low-ash oil stands up to temperatures better than older formulations, and is backwards-compliant to older machines and trucks with diesel engines. The converse is not true, however. Older oils cannot be used on Tier 4 Final equipment that specifies CJ-4. Always refer to the owner’s manual for oil specifications required for that machine. A Word on Fluid Testing Do it. Equipment dealers have easy kits that contractors can buy, collect fluid samples, then send in for testing and receive a report back within a few days. Analyzing engine oil, fuel, hydraulic fluid and coolant provides valuable insight into the condition and overall health of the engine, transmission and hydraulic systems, and can be used to diagnose potential issues before they become a problem on site.
Engine Idling In short: don’t do it – or try to avoid it as much as possible (we know folks in northern climates like to keep the air conditioner/heat running depending on the time of year). Excessive engine idling has always been a drain on fuel and adds unnecessary wear and tear (engine hours) to a machine. As it relates to today’s Tier 4 Final engines, the days of letting machines idle for extended periods of time are over. Idling does not allow the engine exhaust to obtain the necessary heat for the emissions system components to function.
This can lead to the engine de-rating and/or failure of emissions components – a situation that may require a dealer service visit. This can be avoided by not idling the engine for extended periods of time. Greasing One of the most common mistakes – and among the easiest to avoid – is the lack of greasing. It’s an easy but sometimes messy process that falls victim to “oh, it can wait another few hours” syndrome. There’s a reason OEMs recommend greasing specific joints such as the bucket, loader arms and extendahoe daily – equipment consists of large pieces of steel working in precise movement and under the stress of heavy digging, lifting and swinging. It needs that grease to ensure that everything is working properly and that no undo stress is being put on the machine.
At the beginning of the shift, as part of the normal warm-up process, stretch out the machine a bit, lifting and lowering the loader arms, rolling the bucket, and cycling the backhoe through its normal movements. Listen for any sounds that would indicate seizing and steel grinding against steel – grease accordingly. Telematics OEMs like CASE are making it easier than ever for companies to discover the power of telematics. All CASE backhoes, for instance, come standard with a three-year subscription to CASE SiteWatch. This web-based software program allows the backhoe owner to access information on machine performance factors, track engine hours, and all-together keep better track of maintenance intervals and machine health. It enables alerts to be sent when certain intervals are hit, or when machine operating characteristics fall outside of desired parameters.
It essentially automates many of the notices and reports that a backhoe owner should be monitoring to ensure the long-term productivity of that machine and puts it in the palm of their hand (tablet, phone) or on their desktop. Take advantage of it – and keep vigilant on everything we’ve discussed in this article to ensure optimal uptime. Now, and for years to come.
A tractor backhoe or front end loader is one of the handiest pieces of equipment used on the farm or on a construction site. These fine machines use a variety of for lifting, digging, moving earth, digging ditches, and many other construction uses. Occasionally these hydraulic cylinders need to be rebuilt because of leaking seals around the piston rod. Having a repair shop do this for you can run into quite a bit of money and also cause a long wait while the hydraulic cylinders are being rebuilt for you. This article is intended to help you rebuild and repair the backhoe hydraulic cylinders on your particular machine. Even if you are not experienced in this type of hydraulic repair, this article will guide you through the steps needed to rebuild the backhoe hydraulic cylinders yourself. Finding the correct hydraulic cylinder building kit is the first step in the rebuilding process.
Some backhoes and front end loaders may use several different makes of hydraulic cylinders to perform the same function on your particular machine. The Case 580C backhoe being repaired in this article is a prime example of such an instance and is therefore a perfect example for explaining the hydraulic cylinder rebuild process. The Case 580C backhoe stabilizing jack being repaired listed two different rebuild kits for the hydraulic cylinder used to work the jacks.
One has a one piece piston while the other used a two piece piston. It is very important to get the right hydraulic cylinder rebuild kit before starting the repair job. Once you disassemble the hydraulic cylinder you do not want to wait for the correct kit to arrive. The correct part number is usually stamped into the gland of the hydraulic cylinder. Getting the correct rebuild kit should pose no problem if this part number can be found intact and readable.
Even if you can only read some of the numbers the right rebuild kit can usually be found. You may find this kit online or through a tractor dealership.
Safety is an important factor in rebuilding hydraulic cylinders so be careful and do not hurry the job. Always take time to study the parts you remove if you don't have a schematic of the parts. Take a photo if possible before each step to avoid confusion during the reassembly process.
After removing the yoke from the stabilizing jack stand by pulling the retaining pins, drop the jack to the ground and place a board or some other non metal object beneath the cylinder to keep it steady and to prevent dirt from getting on the parts. It is important to not scratch the piston rod or other parts of the assembly. A marred piston rod will cause the new seals to wear quickly.
The gland on this particular hydraulic cylinder uses a common four hole system for removing and replacing the gland in the cylinder itself. You may purchase a tool made just for this job, and there are a couple on this page, but since I have the tools and metal I prefer to make my own. Each hydraulic cylinder, or tandem cylinders may use a different size gland removal tool which runs into quite a bit of money if you buy them. By making your own you will eventually have a complete set.
I make my gland removal tools from old plow points, case hardened bolts which fit the holes, and a piece of sturdy pipe. An acetylene torch and arc welder is used to shape the tool and weld in the prongs made from the bolts. Before attempting to remove the gland, loosen the to allow fluid pressure to release and prevent a vacuum, making removal of the piston more difficult.
After completion of the gland removal tool, it is a simple matter of unscrewing the gland from the cylinder and removing the piston rod from the cylinder itself. Extending the hydraulic cylinder to its full length before removing the gland will save you the trouble of having to pull the piston rod very far to remove it. Use a sturdy point to attach the piston rod yoke to in order to unscrew the retaining bolt from the piston rod. I normally use the original yoke connection if possible. Since a thread locking substance is used to keep the retaining bolt from vibrating loose (a very dangerous occurrence) it may be necessary to heat the end of the retaining bolt before you can get it to break free from the threads.
Keep the torch flame away from the piston itself and concentrate it on the center of the bolt. With the retaining bolt removed the piston and gland should separate from the piston rod easily. Place these pieces on a clean surface at a comfortable working height and check the seals from the to ensure they are the correct size. It may be helpful to take digital photos as you go to ensure the correct replacement of the new seals. After removing the old seals be sure to clean the piston and gland as best you can before installing the new seals. Any grit or sand may damage the new seals. Be careful not to break the rubber or cellulose seals during reassembly.
The old piston seal which installs in the gland end ny be inserted by using the old seal to drive it in. In this hydraulic cylinder the retaining bolt washer was the correct size for the purpose and worked well. Do not be troubled if there are extra seals which appear to have no place in either the piston or gland. The same kit may be used for several models of hydraulic cylinder and extra parts are often included. Once this part of the process is completed you may reassemble the piston and gland on the piston rod in preparation for the retaining bolt. Clean the threads in the cylinder and lightly grease the piston and gland seals.
Clean the retaining bolt threads and the threads inside of the piston rod and then apply a thread locking substance to the threads. Torque the retaining bolt very tightly and insert the piston rod assembly into the cylinder. It may be necessary to tap the gland against the threads in order for the tool to begin engaging the threads. Tighten securely using a lever to ensure the gland is securely attached. Insert the pins in the jack stand and retighten the hydraulic lines. Be sure to attach all retaining clips securely.
Operate the cylinder until the air is removed and the hydraulic cylinder is working smoothly. Check for leaks and the job is done. This same technique is used for almost all types of hydraulic cylinders. I hope my article helps you with your hydraulic cylinder rebuilding process. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have in the comment section at the bottom of the page. Good luck on your repairs and thanks for reading my article.
I have an old Case 320 backhoe, circa 1950. The bucket cylinder is leaking where the rod passes through the gland. I've removed the cylinder from the machine, and removed the 4 cylinder tie rods which were fastened to the glands with 1/2-20 hex nuts. The cylinder glands are pressed into the cylinder bore and sealed to the bore with o rings. The tie rods hold the glands in place. The glands are not threaded. I was able to pull the rear gland (the end without which the rod passes through) off the end of the cylinder by holding the rear gland with a chain fastened to a tree, then pulling on the rod with a tractor.
The front gland and rod stayed fastened to the cylinder. Now I am stumped with how to get the front gland off. Do you have any suggestions on how I should proceed? Randy, as a commenter put it, a repair manual probably couldn’t have stated it better. We have a 1973 Ford with backhoe and front end loader, I forget the model, but it is homogonous. When we bought it, Mr.
B had to replace all the hydraulic hoses on it. We bought it, sight unseen, to dig up and repair our underground house (can’t link to my hub, of course, but there are some photos of the backhoe working from the side). B said it was too big and heavy to risk putting on top of our house, and I urged him to sell it and buy a smaller one. But alas, we’ve had it for 10 years and the house still hasn’t been dug up and still leaks.
It now needs a brake job, but Mr. B has knee replacement surgery pending. We may have to sell it as is because his days of playing with the backhoe may be over. Voted you up and useful. Thanks for the fast response Randy.
I will let you know how my seal replacement goes. I'm hoping my good fortune or mistakes will help others who visit your page. I also want to mention I read the blogs about your father and the other WWII vets. There are still a few around ( saw a pic of a guy yesterday on the news that survived the Arizona). I wish alot more of us appreciated those men and women that served, perished and survived that time. We are so previliged to have all that their sacrifices have given us.
I can only imagine your pride of your father. By the looks of the help you offer here it looks like he raised a good kid.
Thanks amigo. Now off to the hoe! Great post-article, I don't have the Case(as pictured here,wish Idid) I do have a Massey Ferg 50A tractor.what a tank! Up to this time I've sent out the cyl to be rebuilt. However now, I may tackle this on my own! OK that said, everybody sittin' down?
I also have a Massey Ferg 20hp compact tractor. It was bare so I bought a Yanmar with a front end loader and a PTO run backhoe! I transferred those two things to this Massey.works great! Sold the Yanmar bare with finish mower! Ok that's the history now the fun part. I've got NO IDEA what the make of my backhoe is? I can't find plates or names anywhere!
All I want to do is rebuild a.looks like a 2 inch cyl for the boom. Will there be a number on that cyl? If so where do I look with all that paint? Army protocol guide. Will that help me get parts? If not I don't mind takin' apart first and layin' all the parts in order.and messure them for the fit of seals.rings.what have you. Is there any site that will sell by measurement?
Many times I've gone to Napa with seals and u-joints off ole' vehicles and we messure it right up!???? I did notice there are a few sites.I could.might be able to just buy the whole cyl between 1-2 bills.but I am a hands on kinda guy.I think the small cyl would be a great way to get my feet wet. The biggest challenge I find is findin' the parts, I just think it is the best.to rebuild or fix something vs cave in to this 'throw away market' we have. Thanks, any ideas here appreciated! How did I miss all of these how to hubs? They are brilliant.
That's the gig here, right? You should be killing it with this one. I worked for a landscaping company for 6 months once (between jobs, freelance work scarce). The owner got mad when I tore up his backhoe clearing traveler palms (grow everywhere as well as along underground) and gnarly junk like that from a pristine piece of scrub habitat.
It looks like it needs to be cleared and developed to Yankees. We were clearing it by hand with an illegal crew.
I saved him two days of illegal labor pay before I broke the thing. It was the first time I ever used one. They left it at the site and one of the crew knew how to start it without the key (no problemo, amigo). He showed me how to work the levers, but refused to do it himself. He wasn't as dumb as I look.
I did okay until my borderline dyslexia caught up with me. On the upside, the Mexicans got a good laugh. I wish I had this hub.
He would have never known. But then, I might still be trimming palms. Hi Randy, Finally got the pin out of stabilizer cylinder. Tried a new rosebud heating torch and heated every thing as best we could.
Beat with sledge, it didn't budge. Mechanic friend said next step was to cut it out with torch, so I took it to local blacksmith to do that. Did good job. Buuut on the way home in fast road gear the front 4x4 drive shaft came all apart. Now front stub shaft,pinion on inside,has side play and ruined seal. Needs new bearings.
Parts dealer printed picture and said it should just pull out. Just started on this part,so will try something else after dinner.Toys are expensive. Thanks for your input. Hello PRARIECREEKBILL! I have observed some of these being spot welded instead of using the 'C' clip to hold the pin in place, but I assume you would have noticed this before posting here. I've never had any problem with this so I can only make suggestions at this point. While heating the pin is a last resort, this may be better than beating or using a press to remove it because it may break the yoke of the piston rod which will require a bit of cash or a new cylinder to repair it.
I would heat the pin, not the yoke, if heat is needed. Please check back and tell me what you finally did, if you don't mind. This is a new one on me!
Thanks for the question and for reading this article. Randy Godwin.
Thanks so much for your kind comments, Douglas. My dad was indeed a great man and I hope he was proud of me when he was alive. I think he was okay with the way I turned out too! And thanks for telling me the article was easy to follow, as this was my main focus. I wanted to help small farmers and other machine owners save money and time on hydraulic repairs. You have a great old machine in the Case 580SE.
A little care and maintenance and it will last longer than you and I will! Thanks again and good luck! Please feel free to ask me for any info I may be able to provide concerning your Case. Hi Randy, First off, I would like to commend you on such an awesome explanation of seal rebuild. I doubt there is a manual in exsistance that could do a better job of explaning this special task. Secondly, I salute you and your father for serving under a legend like Patton and only you and God know and appreciate what you have learned from such a great person/leader like your father. I am retired military and truly appreciate what your father did for me.
Lastly, I just purchased a Case 580SE Construction King which I am told is 1985. I am looking at doing some repinning, at least one seal repair and some other things to tighten up the old machine. It runs like a top, and performs great, just like me, old and needs a little tweeking. Thanks again Randy, you are awesome, Doug. Hi John, I wish I could see the gland to give you better info on your problem. Are you sure you have the correct kit or that the gland isn't a 2 piece type gland? I have ordered what I thought was the correct seal kit, but found out later there were several different types of cylinders used for the same purpose on my Case.
Some of the gland seals are very difficult to slide over the gland and into the proper groove. You'll think they won't go, but if carefully maneuvered, they will slide over the other grooves without breaking.
The Case dealer near you can give you an enlargement of the parts and possibly advice too, if you think it would help. Any more info you can give me might help me better understand the problem, John. Feel free to ask me here. Thanks for reading and good luck on your rebuild! My Dad had a land clearing business, and we did all of our own repairs.
When I was 10 he put a rod and +lead in my hand, had me learn to weld up those front idlers for the tracks on the Cat doziers. The East Texas sand really wears out the parts. We single handed replaced a hydrolic clutch in a D-8 Cat on Thanksgiving day when I was 13.
It was freezing cold, but that's just the way my Pop was, and I'm glad I was raised that way because everything now is a piece of cake. Thanks for sharing this information! It really brings back memories! Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons. Login This is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service.
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A tractor backhoe or front end loader is one of the handiest pieces of equipment used on the farm or on a construction site. These fine machines use a variety of for lifting, digging, moving earth, digging ditches, and many other construction uses.
Occasionally these hydraulic cylinders need to be rebuilt because of leaking seals around the piston rod. Having a repair shop do this for you can run into quite a bit of money and also cause a long wait while the hydraulic cylinders are being rebuilt for you. This article is intended to help you rebuild and repair the backhoe hydraulic cylinders on your particular machine. Even if you are not experienced in this type of hydraulic repair, this article will guide you through the steps needed to rebuild the backhoe hydraulic cylinders yourself. Finding the correct hydraulic cylinder building kit is the first step in the rebuilding process.
Some backhoes and front end loaders may use several different makes of hydraulic cylinders to perform the same function on your particular machine. The Case 580C backhoe being repaired in this article is a prime example of such an instance and is therefore a perfect example for explaining the hydraulic cylinder rebuild process. The Case 580C backhoe stabilizing jack being repaired listed two different rebuild kits for the hydraulic cylinder used to work the jacks. One has a one piece piston while the other used a two piece piston. It is very important to get the right hydraulic cylinder rebuild kit before starting the repair job. Once you disassemble the hydraulic cylinder you do not want to wait for the correct kit to arrive.
The correct part number is usually stamped into the gland of the hydraulic cylinder. Getting the correct rebuild kit should pose no problem if this part number can be found intact and readable. Even if you can only read some of the numbers the right rebuild kit can usually be found. You may find this kit online or through a tractor dealership. Safety is an important factor in rebuilding hydraulic cylinders so be careful and do not hurry the job. Always take time to study the parts you remove if you don't have a schematic of the parts.
Take a photo if possible before each step to avoid confusion during the reassembly process. After removing the yoke from the stabilizing jack stand by pulling the retaining pins, drop the jack to the ground and place a board or some other non metal object beneath the cylinder to keep it steady and to prevent dirt from getting on the parts.
It is important to not scratch the piston rod or other parts of the assembly. A marred piston rod will cause the new seals to wear quickly. The gland on this particular hydraulic cylinder uses a common four hole system for removing and replacing the gland in the cylinder itself. You may purchase a tool made just for this job, and there are a couple on this page, but since I have the tools and metal I prefer to make my own.
Each hydraulic cylinder, or tandem cylinders may use a different size gland removal tool which runs into quite a bit of money if you buy them. By making your own you will eventually have a complete set. I make my gland removal tools from old plow points, case hardened bolts which fit the holes, and a piece of sturdy pipe.
An acetylene torch and arc welder is used to shape the tool and weld in the prongs made from the bolts. Before attempting to remove the gland, loosen the to allow fluid pressure to release and prevent a vacuum, making removal of the piston more difficult. After completion of the gland removal tool, it is a simple matter of unscrewing the gland from the cylinder and removing the piston rod from the cylinder itself. Extending the hydraulic cylinder to its full length before removing the gland will save you the trouble of having to pull the piston rod very far to remove it. Use a sturdy point to attach the piston rod yoke to in order to unscrew the retaining bolt from the piston rod. I normally use the original yoke connection if possible. Since a thread locking substance is used to keep the retaining bolt from vibrating loose (a very dangerous occurrence) it may be necessary to heat the end of the retaining bolt before you can get it to break free from the threads.
Keep the torch flame away from the piston itself and concentrate it on the center of the bolt. With the retaining bolt removed the piston and gland should separate from the piston rod easily. Place these pieces on a clean surface at a comfortable working height and check the seals from the to ensure they are the correct size. It may be helpful to take digital photos as you go to ensure the correct replacement of the new seals. After removing the old seals be sure to clean the piston and gland as best you can before installing the new seals.
Any grit or sand may damage the new seals. Be careful not to break the rubber or cellulose seals during reassembly. The old piston seal which installs in the gland end ny be inserted by using the old seal to drive it in. In this hydraulic cylinder the retaining bolt washer was the correct size for the purpose and worked well. Do not be troubled if there are extra seals which appear to have no place in either the piston or gland. The same kit may be used for several models of hydraulic cylinder and extra parts are often included. Once this part of the process is completed you may reassemble the piston and gland on the piston rod in preparation for the retaining bolt.
Clean the threads in the cylinder and lightly grease the piston and gland seals. Clean the retaining bolt threads and the threads inside of the piston rod and then apply a thread locking substance to the threads.
Torque the retaining bolt very tightly and insert the piston rod assembly into the cylinder. It may be necessary to tap the gland against the threads in order for the tool to begin engaging the threads. Tighten securely using a lever to ensure the gland is securely attached. Insert the pins in the jack stand and retighten the hydraulic lines.
Be sure to attach all retaining clips securely. Operate the cylinder until the air is removed and the hydraulic cylinder is working smoothly. Check for leaks and the job is done. This same technique is used for almost all types of hydraulic cylinders. I hope my article helps you with your hydraulic cylinder rebuilding process.
Please feel free to ask any questions you may have in the comment section at the bottom of the page. Good luck on your repairs and thanks for reading my article. I have an old Case 320 backhoe, circa 1950. The bucket cylinder is leaking where the rod passes through the gland. I've removed the cylinder from the machine, and removed the 4 cylinder tie rods which were fastened to the glands with 1/2-20 hex nuts.
The cylinder glands are pressed into the cylinder bore and sealed to the bore with o rings. The tie rods hold the glands in place. The glands are not threaded. I was able to pull the rear gland (the end without which the rod passes through) off the end of the cylinder by holding the rear gland with a chain fastened to a tree, then pulling on the rod with a tractor. The front gland and rod stayed fastened to the cylinder. Now I am stumped with how to get the front gland off.
Do you have any suggestions on how I should proceed? Randy, as a commenter put it, a repair manual probably couldn’t have stated it better.
We have a 1973 Ford with backhoe and front end loader, I forget the model, but it is homogonous. When we bought it, Mr. B had to replace all the hydraulic hoses on it. We bought it, sight unseen, to dig up and repair our underground house (can’t link to my hub, of course, but there are some photos of the backhoe working from the side). B said it was too big and heavy to risk putting on top of our house, and I urged him to sell it and buy a smaller one. But alas, we’ve had it for 10 years and the house still hasn’t been dug up and still leaks. It now needs a brake job, but Mr.
B has knee replacement surgery pending. We may have to sell it as is because his days of playing with the backhoe may be over. Voted you up and useful. Thanks for the fast response Randy. I will let you know how my seal replacement goes. I'm hoping my good fortune or mistakes will help others who visit your page. I also want to mention I read the blogs about your father and the other WWII vets.
There are still a few around ( saw a pic of a guy yesterday on the news that survived the Arizona). I wish alot more of us appreciated those men and women that served, perished and survived that time. We are so previliged to have all that their sacrifices have given us. I can only imagine your pride of your father. By the looks of the help you offer here it looks like he raised a good kid. Thanks amigo.
Now off to the hoe! Great post-article, I don't have the Case(as pictured here,wish Idid) I do have a Massey Ferg 50A tractor.what a tank! Up to this time I've sent out the cyl to be rebuilt. However now, I may tackle this on my own! OK that said, everybody sittin' down? I also have a Massey Ferg 20hp compact tractor. It was bare so I bought a Yanmar with a front end loader and a PTO run backhoe!
I transferred those two things to this Massey.works great! Sold the Yanmar bare with finish mower! Ok that's the history now the fun part. I've got NO IDEA what the make of my backhoe is?
I can't find plates or names anywhere! All I want to do is rebuild a.looks like a 2 inch cyl for the boom.
Will there be a number on that cyl? If so where do I look with all that paint? Will that help me get parts?
If not I don't mind takin' apart first and layin' all the parts in order.and messure them for the fit of seals.rings.what have you. Is there any site that will sell by measurement? Many times I've gone to Napa with seals and u-joints off ole' vehicles and we messure it right up!???? I did notice there are a few sites.I could.might be able to just buy the whole cyl between 1-2 bills.but I am a hands on kinda guy.I think the small cyl would be a great way to get my feet wet. The biggest challenge I find is findin' the parts, I just think it is the best.to rebuild or fix something vs cave in to this 'throw away market' we have. Thanks, any ideas here appreciated!
How did I miss all of these how to hubs? They are brilliant. That's the gig here, right? You should be killing it with this one. I worked for a landscaping company for 6 months once (between jobs, freelance work scarce).
The owner got mad when I tore up his backhoe clearing traveler palms (grow everywhere as well as along underground) and gnarly junk like that from a pristine piece of scrub habitat. It looks like it needs to be cleared and developed to Yankees. We were clearing it by hand with an illegal crew.
I saved him two days of illegal labor pay before I broke the thing. It was the first time I ever used one. They left it at the site and one of the crew knew how to start it without the key (no problemo, amigo). He showed me how to work the levers, but refused to do it himself.
He wasn't as dumb as I look. I did okay until my borderline dyslexia caught up with me. On the upside, the Mexicans got a good laugh.
I wish I had this hub. He would have never known. But then, I might still be trimming palms. Hi Randy, Finally got the pin out of stabilizer cylinder.
Tried a new rosebud heating torch and heated every thing as best we could. Beat with sledge, it didn't budge. Mechanic friend said next step was to cut it out with torch, so I took it to local blacksmith to do that. Did good job. Buuut on the way home in fast road gear the front 4x4 drive shaft came all apart.
Now front stub shaft,pinion on inside,has side play and ruined seal. Needs new bearings. Parts dealer printed picture and said it should just pull out. Just started on this part,so will try something else after dinner.Toys are expensive. Thanks for your input. Hello PRARIECREEKBILL!
I have observed some of these being spot welded instead of using the 'C' clip to hold the pin in place, but I assume you would have noticed this before posting here. I've never had any problem with this so I can only make suggestions at this point. While heating the pin is a last resort, this may be better than beating or using a press to remove it because it may break the yoke of the piston rod which will require a bit of cash or a new cylinder to repair it.
I would heat the pin, not the yoke, if heat is needed. Please check back and tell me what you finally did, if you don't mind. This is a new one on me! Thanks for the question and for reading this article.
Randy Godwin. Thanks so much for your kind comments, Douglas.
My dad was indeed a great man and I hope he was proud of me when he was alive. I think he was okay with the way I turned out too! And thanks for telling me the article was easy to follow, as this was my main focus.
I wanted to help small farmers and other machine owners save money and time on hydraulic repairs. You have a great old machine in the Case 580SE. A little care and maintenance and it will last longer than you and I will! Thanks again and good luck!
Please feel free to ask me for any info I may be able to provide concerning your Case. Hi Randy, First off, I would like to commend you on such an awesome explanation of seal rebuild.
I doubt there is a manual in exsistance that could do a better job of explaning this special task. Secondly, I salute you and your father for serving under a legend like Patton and only you and God know and appreciate what you have learned from such a great person/leader like your father.
I am retired military and truly appreciate what your father did for me. Lastly, I just purchased a Case 580SE Construction King which I am told is 1985. I am looking at doing some repinning, at least one seal repair and some other things to tighten up the old machine. It runs like a top, and performs great, just like me, old and needs a little tweeking. Thanks again Randy, you are awesome, Doug. Hi John, I wish I could see the gland to give you better info on your problem.
Are you sure you have the correct kit or that the gland isn't a 2 piece type gland? I have ordered what I thought was the correct seal kit, but found out later there were several different types of cylinders used for the same purpose on my Case. Some of the gland seals are very difficult to slide over the gland and into the proper groove. You'll think they won't go, but if carefully maneuvered, they will slide over the other grooves without breaking. The Case dealer near you can give you an enlargement of the parts and possibly advice too, if you think it would help.
Any more info you can give me might help me better understand the problem, John. Feel free to ask me here. Thanks for reading and good luck on your rebuild!
My Dad had a land clearing business, and we did all of our own repairs. When I was 10 he put a rod and +lead in my hand, had me learn to weld up those front idlers for the tracks on the Cat doziers. The East Texas sand really wears out the parts.
We single handed replaced a hydrolic clutch in a D-8 Cat on Thanksgiving day when I was 13. It was freezing cold, but that's just the way my Pop was, and I'm glad I was raised that way because everything now is a piece of cake. Thanks for sharing this information! It really brings back memories! Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons. Login This is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service. Google Recaptcha This is used to prevent bots and spam.
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